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The parsnip is a delicious, hardy winter vegetable that is invaluable for soups and stews.

Soil Preparation

Parsnips need well-drained, finely-grained, weed free soil. Do not add manure, this will cause the roots to fork. I rake in a few handfuls of Bone meal before planting

When to Sow

February to April - the seed packets usually recommend February sowing but this is risky because Parsnips are slow to germinate and if the weather is too cold they will not germinate at all. I now sow in March or early April when the soil has warmed a little.

Sowing

Parsnips need to be sown directly in the soil they will not tolerate transplanting from a seed tray.
Sow the seeds to a depth of half of an inch and then lightly cover with soil.

If sowing two rows position them a foot apart (30 cm/12 in)

Water the seeds in dry weather and keep the drills weed-free.

Maintenance and Feeding

It is important to keep the plot weed free, especially when the seedlings are small. Parsnips are slow growers and can be easily smothered by weeds. Thin the seedlings to about 10-15cm apart and water in dry weather. Feed a couple of times with Blood Fish and Bone.

When to harvest

November to February - the first parsnips are traditionally only lifted after a hard frost. They can be left in the ground over winter and dug as required.

Varieties

There are traditional varieties and F1 hybrid varieties. The F1 varieties are smooth skinned and resistant to diseases like canker.

Gladiator (F1)

The original F1 hybrid with smooth, silky skin and large wedge-shaped roots. Canker resistant and widely available

Archer (F1)

A newer F1 variety with white, tapering roots and smooth blemish-free skin. Strong germination and a vigorous, uniform grower.

Tender and True (Traditional)

This is a traditional variety. Long roots and a good flavour with good canker resistance.

Cobham Marrow (Traditional)

Cobham Marrow develops roots up to 8 inches long and is highly resistant to canker.